Story: Lam Phong
By day, Ho Chi Minh City is all about work. But after dark, the fun starts.
By day, Saigon is hot, noisy and dusty. Everything moves quickly. When night falls, the city changes. Residents come out onto the sidewalks to drink, eat and talk. The fast pace gives way to an aura of leisure and romance.
When visitors arrive in a new city, they usually have three questions: Where to go? What to eat? What to do? At night, Saigon has thousands of answers.
Saigonese people love the night time. After dark, the city has its own special character. There are places to appeal to every type of person. It seems that this city never sleeps.
On the sidewalks
Except during storms, Saigon boasts perfect night-time weather. A cool breeze dispels the heat of the day. After dark, people gather on the sidewalks. All strata of society dine outdoors. Even in the backpacker district around De Tham and Pham Ngu Lao Streets, the restaurants and cafes are busiest after dark. Around Ben Thanh Market, a night market springs up. Diners sit at low outdoor tables and eat dishes from throughout Vietnam.
Seated on the sidewalk of Nguyen Trung True Street, diners can request a “nhac vang” or “tan thoi” song from passing buskers. Armed with guitars, these buskers add to the vibrant atmosphere. Vendors peddle chewing gum and lottery tickets, or sell barley sugar. There might even be performances of fire-eating or sword-swallowing to entertain the night time crowds.
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Saigon’s pub districts now draw buskers from around the world, playing a wide range of instruments and musical styles. Their performances are so entertaining and professional that audiences are happy to drop some bills into the performers’ hats.
After hours
Long after most restaurants have closed, food shops and specialized eateries offer light meals for the after-bar crowd. The most popular area for late-night diners is around Nguyen Trai Street in District 1. Here, several large restaurants stay open all night. This spot is popular with kids from wealthy families, including many Overseas Vietnamese, who stop here after going to the nightclubs. Dressed in stylish, expensive clothes, they pile out of luxurious cars and hang out until the wee hours. The food is just an excuse to gather and admire the models and singers who come here to relax and to see and be seen.
Less exciting than Nguyen Trai Street, a lonely food shop stands on Nguyen Du Street – near Duc Ba Church. This spot appeals to homesick Hanoians. Here, the owner shouts to the staff as if she is singing a song. Local office staff who often travel from South to North refer to this place as the “shouting rice soup shop”. This place specializes in chicken rice soup, duck tongue, and typical northern Vietnamese dishes. Regular customers often hang out all night long.
Hai Trieu is a small street that connects Nguyen Hue and Ham Nghi Streets. For older Saigonese, this street holds many memories. It has long been famous for eateries that sell chicken, sticky rice and noodles all night long.
Eating out late at night is a truly Saigonese pleasure. No matter how late it is, some place is sure to be open. With so much competition for customers, the quality of food and service are good. If you want to understand life in Saigon, stay up late and sit on the sidewalk.
Source: Heritage – Vietnam Airlines Inflight Magazines
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