Emerging like a fortress from the gentle hills around Mrauk U is Dukkanthein Paya. Some have described it as being built like a bunker, and others call it a castle, but once inside, its true uplifting nature reveals itself. Its inner passages are lined with images of Buddha, standing in silent repose. But before entering the complex, take some time to take in the breathtaking sight of the centuries old pagoda, its gray walls rising in defiance of the vegetation that grows around it. Less visited than the more well known pagodas of Bagan and Bago, Dukkanthein stands on its own without the benefit of extensive restoration, a symbol of fierce independence. Dukkanthein Paya can be reached from Mrauk U via Sittwe, and should be at the top of any list of the 700 temples in the region to visit. For the time being, much of Rakhine state is off limits to visitors because of clashes between the Buddhist and Muslim ethnic groups. But one gets the feeling that Dukkanthein will still be there when visitors return. It has outlasted the 13th-century Arakanese Kingdom and the 18th-century Konbaung Dynasty, and in all likelihood will outlive the politics of the 21st century.